Myanmar is not a country in Southeast Asia that is often on a traveler's "must see" list or planned for the big backpacking adventure...which is a shame, because Myanmar is one of the most culturally preserved and fascinating destinations in Asia.
Why isn't Myanmar on everyone's "must do" list?
Honestly it wasn't on my list until I was invited by a friend. Before I went to Myanmar, I knew nothing about the country except how it was closed off from the world until a few decades ago.
Myanmar is a captivating and exciting country for many reasons. From floating villages, to valleys of ancient temples that beat Angkor Wat, to long jungle treks to mountain tea-picking villages.
Ready to go out already? Stunning. Here is my itinerary on the best of Myanmar, where to go and what to do from my personal experience, and some key tips and tricks you should know before you go……
Yangon
(the former capital city of Rangoon) is the most populous city in Myanmar, and is likely to be where you land. It is the country's bustling economic capital full of colonial-era buildings clashing with modern high-rises and Buddhist temples.
Upon arrival, Yangon can feel just like Bangkok or Jakarta, but take a deep breath, settle into your hotel, and wander around. Here in Yangon you will get to experience the daily life of Burmese (Myanmar people) who are usually too busy trying to surround you with goods to sell, but are happy to smile. Explore the old and the new of the city, an excellent city for street photography enthusiasts.
China town
Most accommodation will be centered around the market streets and Chinatown area, which is a great place to eat on your first night. 19th and 20th streets are the hot spots.
Shwedagon Pagoda It is the holiest temple in all of Myanmar, and a popular pilgrimage for Buddhists. Legend has it that this golden pagoda and enclosure was built over 2,500 years ago, which would theoretically make it the oldest Buddhist temple in the world.
Colonial markets
I like to travel in the markets - you can get a real sense of life in the country in the market. Especially when no one bothers you! These spacious and ornate iron markets date back to British rule almost 100 years ago and will be a good escape from the heat as well as the best place to buy clothes, bags and other trinkets if you need anything. Bonus, the vendors don't chase you like many other markets and it's fun and pleasant!
Quick tips: eat eat eat! Yangon will have the most diverse food selection in Myanmar. Book accommodation before arrival, hostels and hotels fill up fast, especially during holidays. Yangon will be the best place to get toiletries and supplies, so stock up. Buy a SIM card if you want (they are easy to find, and the airport has reasonable prices.)
Inle was one of the most beautiful towns I visited in Myanmar. About 9-10 hours by bus north of Yangon sits Inle Lake, a vast and beautiful natural contrast to Yangon hidden in a valley surrounded by green hills. It is a network of canals, irrigation channels, farms and a huge freshwater lake. It is a perfect escape after experiencing the bustling city life of Yangon.
Boat ride through the floating villages
Once in Inle Lake, the most famous attraction is the floating villages. It is basically a neighborhood on stilts (a supporting structure), where the locals live in cabins built over a network of wetland waterways and grass. Take a boat and see how life is to live on the water and rely on food that works in the fields of grass or fish. The view itself is stunning, and it is relaxing to sit in a canoe sailing through the maze of houses and see children climbing from one house to another to wave goodbye to you.
Bagan
Bagan was one of my favorite experiences while exploring Myanmar. Whether you arrived in Bagan before or after Inle Lake, it's still a must-see when visiting Myanmar. Bagan is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a valley of more than 2,000+ ancient temples built between the 9th and 13th centuries, which included Burma's golden age in the 11th-12th century time period. During the summer months when I was there , the valley is arid and covered in rust red sand, but in the monsoon season it turns into a vibrant green jungle climate.
Sometimes, we were surrounded by hundreds of people in the biggest temples, and sometimes, completely alone.
It is recommended to rent a scooter or bicycle and cruise to some of the 2000+ temples around Bagan - but there is no way you will see them all! Be adventurous and take some of the dirt roads to the smaller temples, where you'll find yourself alone to explore, living out your Indiana Jones or Lara Croft fantasies. Scooters can be rented for $5-10 per day.
Quick tip: from the end of 2019 it is no longer possible to climb any of the temples or pagodas for sunrise or sunset.
Hot air balloon over Bagan
Now that the temples are closed, what is the best way to get the overview of the place? Hot Air Balloon! Just before sunrise you can take a ride in a hot air balloon and see the whole valley change from purple to gold with ancient temples as far as the eye can see silhouetted against the horizon.
Mandala
In central Myanmar, Mandalay is the country's second largest city, and a good place to launch from for almost all activities and destinations. From Mandalay, you can reach Inle Lake, Bagan and Sipau in the far north. As it's another big metropolis, Mandalay will have plenty of delicious places to eat and a decent nightlife scene, with some fancy bars overlooking the river.
I'm sure you've seen the pictures of silhouetted monks walking across a long bridge with a fiery orange sunrise. This, my friends, is the U Bein Bridge. Without a doubt one of the best sunrises I've ever experienced (and I think it will be for you too), U Bein Bridge is the oldest and longest bridge in the world. I would stay there all day, but by 9 am the place gets pretty busy - so be sure to get there early! Just before sunrise, the monks follow the call to prayer and all walk in their crimson robes to the temple across the river.
Mandalay Hill and Mandalay Fort
Get ready to sweat. I was panting by the time we reached the top, but it's worth the long walk up to Mandalay Hill to the temple perched on top for an amazing view of the sunset (and climbing stairs).
Hsipaw
The sipao, how I miss those days. Mountains all around, trees growing from temples, lush farmlands, waterfalls and the best tea I've ever had - sound good? Hsipaw (Ho the Spaw) is the main town of Shan State and is located 200 km northeast of Mandalay, perfect for anyone who needs an escape to the great outdoors. It will be the main destination for anyone who wants to do some serious multi-day trekking and explore unspoiled Myanmar.
We rented bikes from the town and explored for a few days. Although the road can become quite hilly and rough outside the city, every road you go down will have something fascinating to see. Do not miss the ancient temple complex. Watch young monks play, wander the vibrant fruit and vegetable markets, and relax by the river.
Goteik Viaduct and Train to Hsipaw
For someone who is obsessed with train travel, I had to do what is said to be one of the greatest train journeys in the world. This, above most others, should be on the list of must-do things in Myanmar. Along the 12-hour journey, you'll also cross the Goteik Road, considered a world engineering masterpiece and at once the world's longest viaduct bridge at 2,260 feet (and currently the tallest in Myanmar at 335 feet!).
The old train to Hsipao is a special and captivating journey that leaves Mandalay before dawn and takes you up the mountains zigzagging back and forth, then descends into lush valleys of rice and soybean fields. Over 100 years old, it's a technological marvel of its time, and the coolest mode of transportation to get to Xipao.
Hiking to Mountain Tea Villages
Hiking in the countryside was one of the best trips we did in Myanmar. On a 2-3 day trek you will meet rural farmers, tea pickers and even rebel soldiers who are happy for you to experience their little world and share their daily life. Don't worry, even the soldiers were the nicest people I met. In addition, the tea leaves there are said to help with longevity, so drink up!
We stayed in a small traditional hut and had home cooked meals with a local family, and drank some rice wine with soldiers (shhh). Our guide, X Sai, was very knowledgeable, spoke English very well, and even took us to some secret waterfalls after a hot day of trekking.
Quick tips: wear a hat, sunscreen and bring water bottles, extra snacks and appropriate shoes! Pack things like peanuts or apples that won't go bad in the heat. Look up X-Sai, he's amazing.
Quick Tips: Buy tickets at the train station days before, and try to get first class seats for 2,000 kilos ($2.00). We could only get second class seats, and 12 hours on wooden benches is a brutal performance.
Ngapali
Myanmar has a beautiful coastline with white sand beaches and beautiful sunsets. For me the atmosphere of the ocean the peace! Ngapali is one of the most beautiful beaches, although there are many in the south worth checking out.
Arrival and movement
Before Myanmar relaxed its tourism policies, getting visas into the country, let alone most everything else, could be a huge hassle. SIM cards used to be thousands of dollars, banks were few and far between, and much of the country was closed to travel. Fortunately it has become much easier now to travel to her. I found it easier than many other countries I visited.
eVisa: For your Myanmar visa, you'll want to apply for an eVisa, which takes a few days to process, and once approved, you'll receive a government letter to print and show upon arrival. There are only a few countries that do not have to do this, but if you are from Israel - make sure to apply and check again that all the information is correct.
Buses: There are luxurious VIP buses that are cheap and much more comfortable than most of Southeast Asia, with reclining seats, blankets and snacks provided. Now that there is a main highway that runs from Yangon all the way to Mandalay, the road north is not too busy.
Train: I only got to ride the train in Myanmar once, but it was my favorite way to travel. Traveling by train is another good option and can be taken from Yangon all the way north to Hsipao with transfers. My recommendation from experience is to book a 1st class ticket on the train that won't be much more expensive, and it will save your back and ass from a lot of pain. I know from experience.
Private Taxi: During our time in Myanmar, we mostly took buses when we could find them, but occasionally we had to hire a private taxi to take us to our next destination because nothing else was available. These drivers have nice cars with air conditioning, but they can be quite fast even on roads with sharp cliffs that drop off the side. A private taxi will run around $40-65 for a full day trip to another city.
Flights: Most of Myanmar is accessible these days by flights, especially for Mandalay, Yangon, Bagan, Inle and Nagapali. I flew Air KBZ and it was great.
Myanmar is no longer quite the wild east of Asia because the country's relaxed tourism policy encourages growth, but it was one of the most authentic cultural experiences I've had. Getting around in Myanmar is much easier than it was even 3 years ago, and if you prepare before arrival by sorting out visas and accommodation, you won't encounter many difficulties. With infrastructure improvements, WiFi and 3G/4G available almost everywhere, and banks in every city, there is not much difficulty getting around.
But I can't forget the best part. The most memorable aspects of Myanmar are the people - always smiling, showing endless generosity, and never once did I feel like they were trying to scam me in any way. This, combined with the culture and fascinating places to visit, made it my favorite destination in Southeast Asia.
Good luck and have a nice trip!
